ja...@mhoro.cc.columbia.edu (Jeffrey A Lew) writes:
>I have a question about B&W film. I'm pretty new to this photography stuff, >but I am planning to take some headshots for my friend. We plan to do this >indoors with some halogen lights. What type of B&W film is best for indoor >use WITHOUT the use of a flash?
Try ISO 100 and a tripod. I favour Ilford but that's just my opinion.
I have a question about B&W film. I'm pretty new to this photography stuff, but I am planning to take some headshots for my friend. We plan to do this indoors with some halogen lights. What type of B&W film is best for indoor use WITHOUT the use of a flash?
Jeffrey A Lew (ja...@mhoro.cc.columbia.edu) wrote: : I have a question about B&W film. I'm pretty new to this photography stuff, : but I am planning to take some headshots for my friend. We plan to do this : indoors with some halogen lights. What type of B&W film is best for indoor : use WITHOUT the use of a flash?
IMHO, Kodak TMAX 100 has exceptionally fine grain. If you find it doesn't give you enough speed, try shooting TMAX 400 at 200 first, then at 400. This should also give you good results.
If you find that the negatives are too contrasty, try Tri-X shot at 100. This will flatten out the film considerably.
-Wade
-- "You just shot an unarmed man!" |||||||||||||||||||||||| "Well, he shoulda armed himself." | Wade Albright | -Gene Hackman and Clint Eastwood, | snak...@acs.bu.edu | UNFORGIVEN ||||||||||||||||||||||||
There is an issue with color balance. TMAX-100 (and maybe TMAX-400) have the same ISO under indoor lighting as under outdoor. Other B&W emulsions do not.
8^)--> 8^)--> If you find that the negatives are too contrasty, try Tri-X shot at 8^)--> 100. This will flatten out the film considerably. 8^)-->
And develop accordingly, i'd guess(i.e. underdevelop)
I like low contrast and diffused lights close to the subjects -- thus ISO 400(xp1/2) is needed to keep subjects from frying in hot lights at f8, 1/60.
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In article <30hg20$...@salmon.maths.tcd.ie>, mjcar...@maths.tcd.ie (Michael
Carley) wrote:
> Try ISO 100 and a tripod. I favour Ilford but that's just my opinion.
There's one thing you might consider when shooting portraits with "hot" (i.e., not flash) lighting: will the film be fast enough for the amount of lighting to (1) freeze your subject, and (2) achieve sufficient depth of field.
Unless you plan on using halogens so bright as to give your subjects heat stroke, you may find it difficult when using 100 speed film to get all important facial features (eyes, nose, ears, neck) in adequate focus, especially when using a standard portrait lens ( >85mm ). Remember that no one sits perfectly still, so an adequately high shutter speed is more important that you may think. You may also want to experiment with different B&W filters, which will also diminish the incoming light.
I've shot Tri-X successfully. I haven't tried T-Max 400 for portraits, but in general I've had more trouble getting good results (sensitive developing) with this than with Tri-X. I wouldn't worry about additional grain; Tri-X resulted in perfectly adequate 8x10's.
In article <30hg20$...@salmon.maths.tcd.ie>, mjcar...@maths.tcd.ie (Michael Carley) writes:
|>ja...@mhoro.cc.columbia.edu (Jeffrey A Lew) writes: |> |>>I have a question about B&W film. I'm pretty new to this photography stuff, |>>but I am planning to take some headshots for my friend. We plan to do this |>>indoors with some halogen lights. What type of B&W film is best for indoor |>>use WITHOUT the use of a flash? |> |>Try ISO 100 and a tripod. I favour Ilford but that's just my opinion.
ILFORD Delta 400 (ISO 400) would be a good film I think. More sensible, but the same resolution like the ILFORD ISO 100 or 125 films.
I've noticed photogs in the local market here doing headshots with XP2. Any arguments? -- Benjamin Feen Theatrical Technology major at large b-f...@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu Woo!
I am wondering about Fuji Neopan 400 and Agfapan APX 100. I haven't shot either, yet, but I have purchased some. Someone told me that Neopan 400 was "like a fine-grained Tri-X". This person was a big Tri-X fan. Since I don't develop my own film, I am limited to either D-76 1:1 or T-Max 1:4 in the two labs that I use. I shoot mostly people (candids) for a music school in (very) mixed lighting situations. Can anyone add some insight?
I love XP2, but I find the emulsion seems to scratch more easily. I've also heard that XP2 negatives are less archival than traditional black and white films.
Jeffrey A Lew (ja...@mhoro.cc.columbia.edu) wrote: : I have a question about B&W film. I'm pretty new to this photography stuff, : but I am planning to take some headshots for my friend. We plan to do this : indoors with some halogen lights. What type of B&W film is best for indoor : use WITHOUT the use of a flash?
TMAX 400.
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In article <30iu1k$...@vixen.cso.uiuc.edu> b-f...@ux4.cso.uiuc.edu (Feen Ben J) writes:
>I've noticed photogs in the local market here doing headshots with XP2. >Any arguments? >Benjamin Feen
Time.
XP2 can be developed at any photo lab normally (along with all the color stuff). Although there is a slight pink hue to the prints, it doesn't usually matter because the headshots are most likely only needed for a decent PMT. (The halftones needed for newspapers...etc)
Some ads have 50 identically shot headshots...it's a heck of a lot faster and cheaper to drop the XP2 off at a lab than to go into the darkroom yourself.
I am assuming that these headshots are to be used in real estate ads or something where there are pictures of the 50 helpful agents at agency XYZ.
Jeffrey A Lew (ja...@mhoro.cc.columbia.edu) wrote: : I have a question about B&W film. I'm pretty new to this photography stuff, : but I am planning to take some headshots for my friend. We plan to do this : indoors with some halogen lights. What type of B&W film is best for indoor : use WITHOUT the use of a flash?
I guess it depend on what effects you are wanting in the finished product - are you wanting a crystal-clear reproduction, or grainy and with some character? How much natural room light is there, and where will the subject be in relation to the light source? If you are adventurous, and don't mind experimenting - use two cameras 1 with 1000 asa film AGFA if you can get it, and say 400 asa plus X pan - play around and see what you get.
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