I have a Kodak safe light that looks like a metal cone. One end screws into a lamp socket, the other holds a round filter. It's probably from the 1960's or older, but it's the only thing I could get here in any color except red.
I bought out the last of the locally availaible little red things that use nightlight bulbs and a bunch of the bulbs, so I am covered for red, but I wanted an orange (Wratten OC) filter as I can see much better by it.
The problem I have, is that here in Israel, we have been ahead of everyone else in energy saving, CFL bulbs have been sold here, and used by me, since 1997. That's good, but it has caused the demand and therefore the supply of low wattage incadescent bulbs to dry up.
I found a few Chinese made 7-10 watt bulbs, but they only last a few hours. I found a 15 watt bulb sold for refrigerators, but it has a different base and I am trying to adapt it, but may not be able to get those bulbs much longer and they are very expensive being made to operate at 0F and below.
The smallest incadescent bulbs that are still common here are 40 watt bulbs.
What is everyone else doing for safelights?
Thanks in advance,
Geoff.
-- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel g...@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
On 2009-05-04 07:34, Geoffrey S. Mendelson <g...@mendelson.com> wrote:
> I found a few Chinese made 7-10 watt bulbs, but they only last a few > hours. I found a 15 watt bulb sold for refrigerators, but it has a > different base and I am trying to adapt it, but may not be able to get > those bulbs much longer and they are very expensive being made to > operate at 0F and below.
> The smallest incadescent bulbs that are still common here are 40 watt > bulbs.
> What is everyone else doing for safelights?
Here in Poland 15W bulbs are quite common and could be bought in almost any shop (supermarkets etc.), but it is also possible to get 5 and 7 watt ones. The prices are like 0.5 euros for the 15W ones and approximately 2 euros for smaller ones (they aren't so popular). Some of the popular makers is Tungsram (owned by GE) and PIL1 (polish).
-- Maciej Zielenkiewicz RLU #232362 "This isn't right. This isn't even wrong." Wolfgang Pauli
Maciej Zielenkieiwcz wrote: > Here in Poland 15W bulbs are quite common and could be bought in almost > any shop (supermarkets etc.), but it is also possible to get 5 > and 7 watt ones. The prices are like 0.5 euros for the 15W ones and > approximately 2 euros for smaller ones (they aren't so popular). Some > of the popular makers is Tungsram (owned by GE) and PIL1 (polish).
Thanks, I tried the supermarkets with no luck. I asked on a local group and got some leads on real lighting stores, so I'll try them.
Although we have not gone as far as to ban incadescent bulbs, the market seems to have spoken.
Geoff.
-- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel g...@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: > I have a Kodak safe light that looks like a metal cone. One end screws into > a lamp socket, the other holds a round filter. It's probably from the 1960's > or older, but it's the only thing I could get here in any color except red.
> I bought out the last of the locally availaible little red things that > use nightlight bulbs and a bunch of the bulbs, so I am covered for red, > but I wanted an orange (Wratten OC) filter as I can see much better by > it.
> The problem I have, is that here in Israel, we have been ahead of > everyone else in energy saving, CFL bulbs have been sold here, and used > by me, since 1997. That's good, but it has caused the demand and > therefore the supply of low wattage incadescent bulbs to dry up.
> I found a few Chinese made 7-10 watt bulbs, but they only last a few > hours. I found a 15 watt bulb sold for refrigerators, but it has a > different base and I am trying to adapt it, but may not be able to get > those bulbs much longer and they are very expensive being made to > operate at 0F and below.
> The smallest incadescent bulbs that are still common here are 40 watt > bulbs.
> What is everyone else doing for safelights?
I use 7 1/2 watt 120 volt incandescent lamp bulbs. Whereas most incandescent lamps are designed to last about 750 hours, these little ones are designed to last 1250 hours. I do not know if I have ever had one burn out. Now if you run them at 220 volts, their lifetime would be very short.
My safelights came with 15 watt bulbs, and they did not seem to fog paper, but since the lights are slightly less than the 4 feet distance from my working surfaces, I thought it would be better to use smaller lamps in them.
Incandescent lamps run much longer as their input voltage is reduced. You might consider putting a suitable resistor in series with the bulb to dim the bulb slightly and increase its lifetime. The trick is to compute the proper resistance. If you measure the resistance of the bulb with an ohmmeter, it will be very low, so you will get too low a value to put in series. It is better to calculate it. If it is a 22 watt bulb at 220 volts, the bulb draws 1/10 amp, so it is 2200 ohm with a hot filament. So you might try a 110 to 220 ohm resistor to lower the voltage. You might wish to use a 5 watt resistor.
> Thanks in advance,
> Geoff.
-- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 07:10:01 up 40 days, 13:24, 3 users, load average: 4.02, 4.15, 4.13
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: > > I have a Kodak safe light that looks like a metal cone. One end screws into > > a lamp socket, the other holds a round filter. It's probably from the 1960's > > or older, but it's the only thing I could get here in any color except red.
> > I bought out the last of the locally availaible little red things that > > use nightlight bulbs and a bunch of the bulbs, so I am covered for red, > > but I wanted an orange (Wratten OC) filter as I can see much better by > > it.
> > The problem I have, is that here in Israel, we have been ahead of > > everyone else in energy saving, CFL bulbs have been sold here, and used > > by me, since 1997. That's good, but it has caused the demand and > > therefore the supply of low wattage incadescent bulbs to dry up.
> > I found a few Chinese made 7-10 watt bulbs, but they only last a few > > hours. I found a 15 watt bulb sold for refrigerators, but it has a > > different base and I am trying to adapt it, but may not be able to get > > those bulbs much longer and they are very expensive being made to > > operate at 0F and below.
> > The smallest incadescent bulbs that are still common here are 40 watt > > bulbs.
> > What is everyone else doing for safelights?
> I use 7 1/2 watt 120 volt incandescent lamp bulbs. Whereas most incandescent > lamps are designed to last about 750 hours, these little ones are designed > to last 1250 hours. I do not know if I have ever had one burn out. Now if > you run them at 220 volts, their lifetime would be very short.
> My safelights came with 15 watt bulbs, and they did not seem to fog paper, > but since the lights are slightly less than the 4 feet distance from my > working surfaces, I thought it would be better to use smaller lamps in them.
> Incandescent lamps run much longer as their input voltage is reduced. You > might consider putting a suitable resistor in series with the bulb to dim > the bulb slightly and increase its lifetime. The trick is to compute the > proper resistance. If you measure the resistance of the bulb with an > ohmmeter, it will be very low, so you will get too low a value to put in > series. It is better to calculate it. If it is a 22 watt bulb at 220 volts, > the bulb draws 1/10 amp, so it is 2200 ohm with a hot filament. So you might > try a 110 to 220 ohm resistor to lower the voltage. You might wish to use a > 5 watt resistor.
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Geoff.
> -- > .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. > /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939. > /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org > ^^-^^ 07:10:01 up 40 days, 13:24, 3 users, load average: 4.02, 4.15, 4.13- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
I think the OP needs to consider what is available locally. Those sound good, but I am not sure what is available in Israel. If the enclosure will withstand a higher wattage bulb, it is also possible to reduce the illumination by simply moving the safelight farther away, shining the light on a dark wall or covering part of the filter with black paper. Having tried any of these suggestions it is still necessary to test the result.
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: > The problem I have, is that here in Israel, we have been ahead of > everyone else in energy saving, CFL bulbs have been sold here, and used > by me, since 1997. That's good, but it has caused the demand and > therefore the supply of low wattage incadescent bulbs to dry up.
I use 3W CFL lamps in my beehive safelights. They are supposed to produce equivalent light output to 15W incandescents. They certainly seem to produce about the same amount of illumination in my darkroom, and no fogging problems when used for similar periods of time.
>I have a Kodak safe light that looks like a metal cone. One end screws into > a lamp socket, the other holds a round filter. It's probably from the > 1960's > or older, but it's the only thing I could get here in any color except > red.
> I bought out the last of the locally availaible little red things that > use nightlight bulbs and a bunch of the bulbs, so I am covered for red, > but I wanted an orange (Wratten OC) filter as I can see much better by > it.
> The problem I have, is that here in Israel, we have been ahead of > everyone else in energy saving, CFL bulbs have been sold here, and used > by me, since 1997. That's good, but it has caused the demand and > therefore the supply of low wattage incadescent bulbs to dry up.
> I found a few Chinese made 7-10 watt bulbs, but they only last a few > hours. I found a 15 watt bulb sold for refrigerators, but it has a > different base and I am trying to adapt it, but may not be able to get > those bulbs much longer and they are very expensive being made to > operate at 0F and below.
> The smallest incadescent bulbs that are still common here are 40 watt > bulbs.
> What is everyone else doing for safelights?
If that 40 watt bulb can indeed fit in your safelight, what about hooking it up to a variable resistor? A specific one commonly available (I trust even in Israel) is the room dimmer. Get an electric/junction box which allows two switches/receptacles, one two prong receptacle, and one room dimmer. Mount the dimmer and the receptable in the box suitably wired. If desired, add a cover plate. If desired, add rubber feet/felt pads to the bottom of the box. Plug your safe light wire into the receptacle and turn on/off the safelight using the room dimmer. You may want to mark the cover plate suitably to indicate illumination levels. And connect the box to any wall receptacle using a length of suitable wire ending in a male plug - I suggest cannibalizing an plain old extension cord - cut off the female end and wire it into the box.
>I have a Kodak safe light that looks like a metal cone. One >end screws into > a lamp socket, the other holds a round filter. It's > probably from the 1960's > or older, but it's the only thing I could get here in any > color except red.
> I bought out the last of the locally availaible little red > things that > use nightlight bulbs and a bunch of the bulbs, so I am > covered for red, > but I wanted an orange (Wratten OC) filter as I can see > much better by > it.
> The problem I have, is that here in Israel, we have been > ahead of > everyone else in energy saving, CFL bulbs have been sold > here, and used > by me, since 1997. That's good, but it has caused the > demand and > therefore the supply of low wattage incadescent bulbs to > dry up.
> I found a few Chinese made 7-10 watt bulbs, but they only > last a few > hours. I found a 15 watt bulb sold for refrigerators, but > it has a > different base and I am trying to adapt it, but may not be > able to get > those bulbs much longer and they are very expensive being > made to > operate at 0F and below.
> The smallest incadescent bulbs that are still common here > are 40 watt > bulbs.
> What is everyone else doing for safelights?
> Thanks in advance,
> Geoff.
AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact fluorescent lamp you can obtain and use some layers of plain writing paper over the filter or inside against the filter. The compact fluoresent lamps have some after glow but that should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think they run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
--
-- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com
Richard Knoppow wrote: > AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact > fluorescent lamp you can obtain and use some layers of plain > writing paper over the filter or inside against the filter. > The compact fluoresent lamps have some after glow but that > should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think they > run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to another lighting store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt bulbs (made in Hungary).I bought six, so I am set for a long time.
I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more safelights, and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
Geoff.
-- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel g...@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM
>> AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact >> fluorescent lamp you can obtain and use some layers of >> plain >> writing paper over the filter or inside against the >> filter. >> The compact fluoresent lamps have some after glow but >> that >> should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think >> they >> run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to > another lighting > store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt bulbs (made in > Hungary).I bought > six, so I am set for a long time.
> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need > more safelights, > and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
> Geoff.
> -- > Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel g...@mendelson.com > N3OWJ/4X1GM
Are you not able to get these thing via eBay, they seem to turn up pretty frequently there. However, I know you have to deal with some pretty serious restrictions. I think Ilford made a similar lamp, they certainly made filters that fit the Kodak lamps.
-- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles WB6KBL dickb...@ix.netcom.com
Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote: > Richard Knoppow wrote:
>>AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact >>fluorescent lamp you can obtain and use some layers of plain >>writing paper over the filter or inside against the filter. >>The compact fluoresent lamps have some after glow but that >>should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think they >>run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to another lighting > store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt bulbs (made in Hungary).I bought > six, so I am set for a long time.
> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more safelights, > and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
Will the series diode work with a compact fluorescent lamp? I think either the clipped sine wave or the decereased voltage might not let the bulb work Although the clipped sine wave might not be a problem..
>A 1 amp diode in series with the bulb will reduce the wattage > (but not by half). Try a 1N4004. 400V @ 1amp. About 10c or less. > Murray
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
>> Richard Knoppow wrote:
>>>AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact fluorescent lamp you >>>can obtain and use some layers of plain writing paper over the filter or >>>inside against the filter. The compact fluoresent lamps have some after >>>glow but that should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think they >>>run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
>> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to another >> lighting >> store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt bulbs (made in Hungary).I >> bought >> six, so I am set for a long time.
>> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more >> safelights, >> and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
> Will the series diode work with a compact fluorescent lamp? I think either > the clipped sine wave or the decereased voltage might not let the bulb work > Although the clipped sine wave might not be a problem..
*Please* don't top post.
Won't work (well) with most CFLs. Should work OK with dimmable CFLs.
By the way, it isn't a clipped sine wave; it's a half-wave rectified sine wave.
>>A 1 amp diode in series with the bulb will reduce the wattage >> (but not by half). Try a 1N4004. 400V @ 1amp. About 10c or less. >> Murray
>> Geoffrey S. Mendelson wrote:
>>> Richard Knoppow wrote:
>>>> AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact fluorescent >>>> lamp you can obtain and use some layers of plain writing paper >>>> over the filter or inside against the filter. The compact >>>> fluoresent lamps have some after glow but that should not be a >>>> problem for a safelight. I don't think they run hot enough to >>>> cause problems with the paper.
>>> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to another >>> lighting >>> store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt bulbs (made in Hungary).I >>> bought >>> six, so I am set for a long time.
>>> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more >>> safelights, and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around >>> (here).
Sorry, been away -late answer. The quick answer is 'NO'. Fluoros work to a completely different system. That's why the usual dimmers warn against using them to control fluoros. Incandescent only. Get a fluoro specific dimmer. A diode actually extends the lifetime of a normal bulb. Murray
K W Hart wrote: > Will the series diode work with a compact fluorescent lamp? I think either > the clipped sine wave or the decereased voltage might not let the bulb work > Although the clipped sine wave might not be a problem..
>>>> AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact fluorescent lamp you >>>> can obtain and use some layers of plain writing paper over the filter or >>>> inside against the filter. The compact fluoresent lamps have some after >>>> glow but that should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think they >>>> run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
>>> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to another >>> lighting >>> store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt bulbs (made in Hungary).I >>> bought >>> six, so I am set for a long time.
>>> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more >>> safelights, >>> and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
> Sorry, been away -late answer. The quick answer is 'NO'. > Fluoros work to a completely different system. > That's why the usual dimmers warn against using them to > control fluoros. Incandescent only. Get a fluoro specific > dimmer. > A diode actually extends the lifetime of a normal bulb.
Actually, you got it a little backwards. No such thing as a "fluorescent-specific" dimmer. What you *can* get are dimmable fluorescents, that work with any dimmer.
> K W Hart wrote: >> Will the series diode work with a compact fluorescent lamp? I think either >> the clipped sine wave or the decereased voltage might not let the bulb work >> Although the clipped sine wave might not be a problem..
>>>>> AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact fluorescent lamp you >>>>> can obtain and use some layers of plain writing paper over the filter or >>>>> inside against the filter. The compact fluoresent lamps have some after >>>>> glow but that should not be a problem for a safelight. I don't think they >>>>> run hot enough to cause problems with the paper.
>>>> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to >>>> another lighting store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt >>>> bulbs (made in Hungary).I bought six, so I am set for a long >>>> time.
>>>> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more >>>> safelights, >>>> and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
-- Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
I see your request not to top post - unfortunately my program displays from the top, down, and I don't have to scroll all the way thru countless repetitions of previous postings to get to the actual new message.
BTW - never seen dimmable fluoros here (Australia) only dimmers labeled as suitable for fluorescent lamps, But since I don't look all that often you are doubtless correct. Murray
David Nebenzahl wrote: > On 5/23/2009 7:24 AM Murray spake thus:
>> Sorry, been away -late answer. The quick answer is 'NO'. >> Fluoros work to a completely different system. >> That's why the usual dimmers warn against using them to >> control fluoros. Incandescent only. Get a fluoro specific >> dimmer. >> A diode actually extends the lifetime of a normal bulb.
> Actually, you got it a little backwards. No such thing as a > "fluorescent-specific" dimmer. What you *can* get are dimmable > fluorescents, that work with any dimmer.
> Please don't top-post.
>> K W Hart wrote: >>> Will the series diode work with a compact fluorescent lamp? I think >>> either the clipped sine wave or the decereased voltage might not let >>> the bulb work Although the clipped sine wave might not be a problem..
>>>>>> AKA Beehive lamp. Get the smallest wattage compact fluorescent >>>>>> lamp you can obtain and use some layers of plain writing paper >>>>>> over the filter or inside against the filter. The compact >>>>>> fluoresent lamps have some after glow but that should not be a >>>>>> problem for a safelight. I don't think they run hot enough to >>>>>> cause problems with the paper.
>>>>> Thanks, and to everyone who suggested something. I went to >>>>> another lighting store today and found a bunch of GE 15 watt >>>>> bulbs (made in Hungary).I bought six, so I am set for a long >>>>> time.
>>>>> I'm still thinking about the other possibilites as I need more >>>>> safelights, >>>>> and I doubt that there more Beehive lamps around (here).
In article <4a1f855b$0$24400$5a62a...@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>,
Murray <m...@erewhon.com.au> wrote: > I see your request not to top post - unfortunately my > program displays from the top, down, and I don't have to > scroll all the way thru countless repetitions of > previous postings to get to the actual new message.
Murray wrote: > I see your request not to top post - unfortunately my > program displays from the top, down, and I don't have to > scroll all the way thru countless repetitions of > previous postings to get to the actual new message.
I am sorry things work out that way for you. There are two problems, and only one of them is yours.
1.) When responding, the responder should delete all unnecessary material from the post to which he is responding. Usually, retaining only the context needed to make the response understandable is enough.
2.) When responding, either respond at the bottom or, when appropriate, immediately after the part to which you are currently responding (when you are responding to several parts of the original message).
-- .~. Jean-David Beyer Registered Linux User 85642. /V\ PGP-Key: 9A2FC99A Registered Machine 241939. /( )\ Shrewsbury, New Jersey http://counter.li.org ^^-^^ 09:15:01 up 65 days, 15:29, 3 users, load average: 4.09, 4.33, 4.31
> 1.) When responding, the responder should delete all unnecessary material > from the post to which he is responding. Usually, retaining only the > context needed to make the response understandable is enough.
If only they would.... Unfortunately, so many people will not snip the countless lines of old material, making top posting almost necessary. Those who vehemently condemn top-posting, claiming it's "against the rules," and citing "netiquette" and all that, should instead go after the many posters who leave 600 lines of old, already outdated and now irrelevant material from several different previous postings... and then respond with a two-liner. That's even worse. Having to scroll, scroll, scroll just to get to the next response is a real nuisance, thanks to those bottom posters who do it badly.
Regardless of all that... ;-) I remember starting out printing b&w a million years ago at age 12 with the aid of a Kodak safelight that probably used 4w nightlight bulbs. The kit came with three large translucent domes of red, green, and orange. Printing my own stuff was fun.
>> 1.) When responding, the responder should delete all unnecessary material >> from the post to which he is responding. Usually, retaining only the >> context needed to make the response understandable is enough.
> If only they would.... Unfortunately, so many people will not snip the > countless lines of old material, making top posting almost necessary. Those > who vehemently condemn top-posting, claiming it's "against the rules," and > citing "netiquette" and all that, should instead go after the many posters > who leave 600 lines of old, already outdated and now irrelevant material > from several different previous postings... and then respond with a > two-liner. That's even worse. Having to scroll, scroll, scroll just to get > to the next response is a real nuisance, thanks to those bottom posters who > do it badly.
That's still not any justification for top-posting.
When I advise to bottom post, that *implicitly* includes trimming the text before posting. You'd thing that would go without saying, but as you say, too many idjits just blindly quote the entire damn previous message, sometimes adding only a line or two at the bottom.
Like they say, it ain't rocket science ...
-- Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
: > I see your request not to top post - unfortunately my : > program displays from the top, down, and I don't have to : > scroll all the way thru countless repetitions of : > previous postings to get to the actual new message. : > : I am sorry things work out that way for you. There are two problems, and : only one of them is yours.
: 1.) When responding, the responder should delete all unnecessary material : from the post to which he is responding. Usually, retaining only the context : needed to make the response understandable is enough.
: 2.) When responding, either respond at the bottom or, when appropriate, : immediately after the part to which you are currently responding (when you : are responding to several parts of the original message).
These days I find that I prefer top posting to bottom posting. It makes threads easier to read. Back in the days before threaded newsreaders I admit it was easier to read a post when the reply was at the bottom. --
------------------- Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
: In article : <4a1f855b$0$24400$5a62a...@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au>, : Murray <m...@erewhon.com.au> wrote:
: > I see your request not to top post - unfortunately my : > program displays from the top, down, and I don't have to : > scroll all the way thru countless repetitions of : > previous postings to get to the actual new message. : >
: Get a real newsreader and learn how to snip.
You may try finding a newsreader capable of threading. Having to scroll to the bottom of a post to read the new content is a pain. It's much easier if the new content is on the top of the post. --
------------------- Keep working millions on welfare depend on you
In article <daCdnTjfgOa8UbzXnZ2dnUVZ_tidn...@giganews.com>, Frank Pittel <f...@warlock.deepthought.com> wrote:
> You may try finding a newsreader capable of threading. Having to > scroll to the bottom of a post to read the new content is a pain. > It's much easier if the new content is on the top of the post.
My newsreader is a real newsreader and is quite capable of threading and I'm smart enough to snip. This is an argument that's basically newbie against experienced -- and Microsoft isn't NNTP friendly. I've made the arguments from the position of a top poster when I was a newbie over a decade ago.
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