I plan to produce a series of prints which will require brown toning. I've never toned a print before, so I'd appreciate any pointers, gotcha's or product recommendations the group can throw my way. Another consideration is how close the mat color can com to the print tone. I'd like to start with the neutral black FB & RC papers I usually stock, so I guess that's a consideration, too. TIA
>I plan to produce a series of prints which will require >brown toning. > I've never toned a print before, so I'd appreciate any > pointers, > gotcha's or product recommendations the group can throw my > way. > Another consideration is how close the mat color can com > to the print > tone. I'd like to start with the neutral black FB & RC > papers I > usually stock, so I guess that's a consideration, too. > TIA
There are three commercial toners available from Kodak and there are some other brands of similar toners. The three are: Kodak Brown Toner Kodak Sepia Toner II Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner
These all have somewhat different results. The effect of a toner depends on the paper emulsion and also to some extent on the developer. You pretty much have to experiment to find which is most satisfactory to you. Kodak Brown Toner is a polysulfide type. It is usually used at elevated temperature, about 100F, because it is very slow when cold. KBT tones evenly (all densities toned equally) so it is useful where one wants only a little color change. For this reason it also provides good image protection where images are only partially toned. Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner is used at various dilutions from about 1:19 to 1:3. It tends to tone dense parts of the image first. KRST at 1:19 was once recommended for image protection but it was discovered that it failed on microfilm because of the uneven toning. However, where images are toned enough to obtain a noticable change in image color or density it still provides very good iamge protection. KRST works best on warm tone paper as far as image color change. On neutral or cold tone papers it will somewhat intensify the image (increase contrast) with little or no change in color. Kodak Sepia Toner II is an "indirect" toner, that is, it is composed of two parts: the first is a bleach, the paper is first bleached until the image either disappears or turns cream or yellow colored. Then the paper is rinsed in water and re-developed in a soldium sulfide solution. The re-development takes only a couple of minutes. While Sepia toner can be used for partial toning by only partially bleaching it is usually used when one wants complete toning. Image protection is excellent when toning is complete. Unlike the "direct" toners indirect types give best results on neutral or cold tone papers. They tone warm tone papers fine but the resulting color may be too yellow. Actually, image protection from any sulfide or selenium toner is excellent provided toning is complete. There are some good books on toning, IMO the best is Tim Rudman's book _The Master Photographer's Toning Book_ I think this maybe out of print but am not sure. Search Google Books for "Tim Rudman" to find more, he has several other excellent books.
-- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickb...@ix.netcom.com
> >I plan to produce a series of prints which will require > >brown toning. > > I've never toned a print before, so I'd appreciate any > > pointers, > > gotcha's or product recommendations the group can throw my > > way. > > Another consideration is how close the mat color can com > > to the print > > tone. I'd like to start with the neutral black FB & RC > > papers I > > usually stock, so I guess that's a consideration, too. > > TIA
> There are three commercial toners available from Kodak > and there are some other brands of similar toners. The three > are: > Kodak Brown Toner > Kodak Sepia Toner II > Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner
> These all have somewhat different results. The effect > of a toner depends on the paper emulsion and also to some > extent on the developer. You pretty much have to experiment > to find which is most satisfactory to you. > Kodak Brown Toner is a polysulfide type. It is usually > used at elevated temperature, about 100F, because it is very > slow when cold. KBT tones evenly (all densities toned > equally) so it is useful where one wants only a little color > change. For this reason it also provides good image > protection where images are only partially toned. > Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner is used at various dilutions > from about 1:19 to 1:3. It tends to tone dense parts of the > image first. KRST at 1:19 was once recommended for image > protection but it was discovered that it failed on microfilm > because of the uneven toning. However, where images are > toned enough to obtain a noticable change in image color or > density it still provides very good iamge protection. KRST > works best on warm tone paper as far as image color change. > On neutral or cold tone papers it will somewhat intensify > the image (increase contrast) with little or no change in > color. > Kodak Sepia Toner II is an "indirect" toner, that is, it > is composed of two parts: the first is a bleach, the paper > is first bleached until the image either disappears or turns > cream or yellow colored. Then the paper is rinsed in water > and re-developed in a soldium sulfide solution. The > re-development takes only a couple of minutes. While Sepia > toner can be used for partial toning by only partially > bleaching it is usually used when one wants complete toning. > Image protection is excellent when toning is complete. > Unlike the "direct" toners indirect types give best results > on neutral or cold tone papers. They tone warm tone papers > fine but the resulting color may be too yellow. Actually, > image protection from any sulfide or selenium toner is > excellent provided toning is complete. > There are some good books on toning, IMO the best is Tim > Rudman's book _The Master Photographer's Toning Book_ I > think this maybe out of print but am not sure. Search Google > Books for "Tim Rudman" to find more, he has several other > excellent books.
> -- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickb...@ix.netcom.com
> >I plan to produce a series of prints which will require > >brown toning. > > I've never toned a print before, so I'd appreciate any > > pointers, > > gotcha's or product recommendations the group can throw > > my > > way. > > Another consideration is how close the mat color can com > > to the print > > tone. I'd like to start with the neutral black FB & RC > > papers I > > usually stock, so I guess that's a consideration, too. > > TIA
> There are three commercial toners available from Kodak > and there are some other brands of similar toners. The > three > are: > Kodak Brown Toner > Kodak Sepia Toner II > Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner
> These all have somewhat different results. The effect > of a toner depends on the paper emulsion and also to some > extent on the developer. You pretty much have to > experiment > to find which is most satisfactory to you. > Kodak Brown Toner is a polysulfide type. It is usually > used at elevated temperature, about 100F, because it is > very > slow when cold. KBT tones evenly (all densities toned > equally) so it is useful where one wants only a little > color > change. For this reason it also provides good image > protection where images are only partially toned. > Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner is used at various dilutions > from about 1:19 to 1:3. It tends to tone dense parts of > the > image first. KRST at 1:19 was once recommended for image > protection but it was discovered that it failed on > microfilm > because of the uneven toning. However, where images are > toned enough to obtain a noticable change in image color > or > density it still provides very good iamge protection. KRST > works best on warm tone paper as far as image color > change. > On neutral or cold tone papers it will somewhat intensify > the image (increase contrast) with little or no change in > color. > Kodak Sepia Toner II is an "indirect" toner, that is, it > is composed of two parts: the first is a bleach, the paper > is first bleached until the image either disappears or > turns > cream or yellow colored. Then the paper is rinsed in water > and re-developed in a soldium sulfide solution. The > re-development takes only a couple of minutes. While Sepia > toner can be used for partial toning by only partially > bleaching it is usually used when one wants complete > toning. > Image protection is excellent when toning is complete. > Unlike the "direct" toners indirect types give best > results > on neutral or cold tone papers. They tone warm tone papers > fine but the resulting color may be too yellow. Actually, > image protection from any sulfide or selenium toner is > excellent provided toning is complete. > There are some good books on toning, IMO the best is Tim > Rudman's book _The Master Photographer's Toning Book_ I > think this maybe out of print but am not sure. Search > Google > Books for "Tim Rudman" to find more, he has several other > excellent books.
> -- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickb...@ix.netcom.com
That's it. I didn't realize it was so expensive. Try Amazon or ABE to see if a used copy is available. There is also a long section in Rudman's _Photographer's Master Printing Course_.
-- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickb...@ix.netcom.com
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