Ignoramus16919 wrote: >Just spoke to a friend of my wife who is a car mechanic who makes >money by fixing cars.
>He mentioned that it could well be a tranny problem.
>He advised me that once shit starts on Chryslers, that it only gets >worse, and advised me to not do any repairs and to get rid of this >truck as soon as possible.
>I am inclined to do just that.
>i
We just got rid of a 1998 Ram 3500B stretch extended van, that may or may not have a similar drive train as your truck. (5.9 L engine, auto trans). The transmission croaked at something like 89000 Miles, and they rebuilt it for ONLY $3100! We did get a "lifetime" warranty on the rebuild, so if it ever blew AGAIN, we'd be covered.
Having had major transmission problems on our last THREE American-brand cars in a ROW, I've pretty well sworn them off. Meanwhile, I'm still driving my 1989 Toyota Corolla station wagon with manual transaxle. Maintenance on that one has run about $100/year, on average. Some years it requires ZERO maintenance whatsoever. 170,000 miles on the original wter pump, alternator, the A/C refrigerant has NEVER been even topped-up, etc.
It ought to be possible to isolate grinding noises to the transmission or rear axle. Any way you can jack the rear wheels off the ground? If it is the transmission, you are in deep DOO-DOO, and he's definitely right, if you can in good conscience dump the thing, do so.
If it is the axle, then I really don't see how some grinding in there is going to take the transmission with it.
On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 15:38:08 -0500, Jon Elson <jmel...@artsci.wustl.edu> wrote:
> Ignoramus16919 wrote:
>>Just spoke to a friend of my wife who is a car mechanic who makes >>money by fixing cars.
>>He mentioned that it could well be a tranny problem.
>>He advised me that once shit starts on Chryslers, that it only gets >>worse, and advised me to not do any repairs and to get rid of this >>truck as soon as possible.
>>I am inclined to do just that.
>>i
> We just got rid of a 1998 Ram 3500B stretch extended van, that may or > may not have a similar drive train as your truck. (5.9 L engine, auto > trans). The transmission croaked at something like 89000 Miles, and they > rebuilt it for ONLY $3100! We did get a "lifetime" warranty on the > rebuild, so if it ever blew AGAIN, we'd be covered.
> Having had major transmission problems on our last THREE American-brand > cars in a ROW, I've pretty well sworn them off. Meanwhile, I'm still > driving my 1989 Toyota Corolla station wagon with manual transaxle. > Maintenance on that one has run about $100/year, on average. Some > years it requires ZERO maintenance whatsoever. 170,000 miles on the > original wter pump, alternator, the A/C refrigerant has NEVER been > even topped-up, etc.
> It ought to be possible to isolate grinding noises to the transmission or > rear axle. Any way you can jack the rear wheels off the ground? > If it is the transmission, you are in deep DOO-DOO, and he's definitely > right, if you can in good conscience dump the thing, do so.
> If it is the axle, then I really don't see how some grinding in there is > going > to take the transmission with it.
> Jon
Jon, it is in the axle. The dealer offered a relatively sensible total price of $1070 (that includes the $114 that they charged me to look at it), so I decided to just have them do it.
> Jon, it is in the axle. The dealer offered a relatively sensible total > price of $1070 (that includes the $114 that they charged me to look at > it), so I decided to just have them do it.
Ya, but you could have saved yourself $600 :)
-- Anthony
You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make better idiots.
On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:13:15 GMT, Anthony <tonytn3...@hotmail.com> wrote: > Ignoramus906 <ignoramus...@NOSPAM.906.invalid> wrote in > news:br7pv.4jf.17.1@news.alt.net:
>> Jon, it is in the axle. The dealer offered a relatively sensible total >> price of $1070 (that includes the $114 that they charged me to look at >> it), so I decided to just have them do it.
> Ya, but you could have saved yourself $600 :)
Sincethey would charge me $114 for having "looked" at it, the amount saved would be $486.
On Tue, 3 Oct 2006 21:23:58 +0000 (UTC), with neither quill nor qualm, Ignoramus906 <ignoramus...@NOSPAM.906.invalid> quickly quoth:
>On Tue, 03 Oct 2006 21:13:15 GMT, Anthony <tonytn3...@hotmail.com> wrote: >>> Jon, it is in the axle. The dealer offered a relatively sensible total >>> price of $1070 (that includes the $114 that they charged me to look at >>> it), so I decided to just have them do it.
>> Ya, but you could have saved yourself $600 :)
>Sincethey would charge me $114 for having "looked" at it, the amount >saved would be $486.
Yeah, you always get a great deal at the dealer. Feh! Shoulda gone to a real live nut builder, Ig. (Better prices/service/knowledge from most.)
------------------------------------------------------ No matter how hard you try, you cannot baptize a cat. ---------------------------- http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development ---------------------------------------------------
> cnct...@naxs.com wrote in news:1159884644.482499.111160 > @k70g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
>> Now drivin' a powerful, made in Canton Miss., Nissan Titan! With Dana >> axles!
> I believe the Dodge axles are Dana also.
> -- > Anthony
They were in the 2500 and 3500's until 2002. With the new 2003 body also brought American Axles. 1500's mostly use the the 9.25 corporate axle. Good axle, bad bearings. Chevrolet has also had lots of problems with their 1500 trucks and vans, bad bearings again.
>>> Now drivin' a powerful, made in Canton Miss., Nissan Titan! With Dana >>> axles!
>> I believe the Dodge axles are Dana also.
> They were in the 2500 and 3500's until 2002. With the new 2003 body also > brought American Axles. 1500's mostly use the the 9.25 corporate axle. > Good axle, bad bearings. Chevrolet has also had lots of problems with their > 1500 trucks and vans, bad bearings again.
What about 2500 RAMs, are they also shoddily made or are they more reliable?
>>> Now drivin' a powerful, made in Canton Miss., Nissan Titan! With Dana >>> axles!
>> I believe the Dodge axles are Dana also. >> -- >> Anthony .......... > They were in the 2500 and 3500's until 2002. With the new 2003 body also >brought American Axles. 1500's mostly use the the 9.25 corporate axle. >Good axle, bad bearings. Chevrolet has also had lots of problems with their >1500 trucks and vans, bad bearings again.
================== There appears to be no technology so mature that some suit can't take a few cents out and turn the product into pure crap.
Didn't the suits ever read the Midas story? You are suposed to turn things into *GOLD*, not crap.....
AFAIK the DANA corporation is operating under chapter 11 also.
Unka George (George McDuffee) ............................. I sincerely believe . . . banking establishments are more dangerous than standing armies, and that the principle of spending money to be paid by posterity, under the name of funding, is but swindling futurity on a large scale. Thomas Jefferson (1743–1826), U.S. president. Letter, 28 May 1816, to political philosopher and Senator John Taylor
> The dealer offered a relatively sensible total > price of $1070 (that includes the $114 that they charged me to look at > it), so I decided to just have them do it.
So how much was a rear end from the wrecker?
--
__ Roger Shoaf
Important factors in selecting a mate: 1] Depth of gene pool 2] Position on the food chain.
On 4 Oct 2006 04:17:11 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, ninebal...@aol.com quickly quoth:
>How hard is it to fix a bad pinion bearing? Do the axels need to be >removed? Do the gears need to be removed? any special tools needed?
>Thanks,
>Hank <~~~has 01 Dakota with bad pinion bearing
Not too, yes, yes, and maybe. Get thee to your local library and see if they have the Chilton repair manuals for your vehicle.
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Larry Jaques <novalidaddress@di/ersify.com> wrote in article <n2c7i297o8afcuipi569jjvf86frre2...@4ax.com>...
> On 4 Oct 2006 04:17:11 -0700, with neither quill nor qualm, > ninebal...@aol.com quickly quoth:
> >How hard is it to fix a bad pinion bearing? Do the axels need to be > >removed? Do the gears need to be removed? any special tools needed?
It's not too hard if you know what you are doing....
The axles must be removed so......
the gears can be removed, in order to.....
set the pinion depth and pinion bearing preload.........
which requires special tools.
Even if you felt confident enough to use the "+" or "-" markings on the pinion gear to set the depth. you really STILL need the pinion to spin freely to set and correctly measure the bearing preload with an inch-pound torque wrench.....
and you cannot do that while the ring gear is meshed with the pinion gear......