I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this device might be of help:
Gary Young wrote: > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > device might be of help: > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757 > That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
No, it won't. Switch from an abrasive technique to a solvent cleaning before applying cement. If there's a Tech Supply guy in your area, have him stop (Tech sells from route trucks). That's what they do and they do it well.
On 29 Oct, 23:06, Gary Young <garyyou...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > device might be of help:
> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
Possibly. I can vaguely remember car tyre repairs taking 15 minutes and that was before one touch jacks, impact wrench and powered tyre remover/resetters. I think its a nice gadget and probably worth its weight for a commercial operator, if only they'd do tube repairs. It's good because you can patch the typical undersize tubes and the patches will hold. With the rubbersolution/contact adhesive applied patches they will creep on an undersized tube.
As well as tubes, the iron may also be able to apply patches to a tyre casing otherwise saving a newish tyre from being discarded due to a small cut that the tube would otherwise poke through and repeatedly puncture.
As far as regular patching goes, what seems to make the biggest difference in reliability is whether you clean the tube with spirit or not. Since cleaning the patch area with spirit I have not had a failure. Other points are to apply the thinnest smear of solution to the tube and let it dry fully before removing the foil from the patch. If when you dab the supposedly dried solution with a finger it lifts, it isn't dry yet, leave it a bit longer. There is no real maximum time in leaviong the dried solution although contact adhesive instructions generally say to close the joint within half an hour (with a spirit solution). Burnish the patch after application.
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:06:22 -0500, Gary Young <garyyou...@gmail.com> wrote:
>I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do >repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes >with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little >while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is >in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this >device might be of help:
> On 29 Oct, 23:06, Gary Young <garyyou...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > > device might be of help:
> > That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
> Possibly. I can vaguely remember car tyre repairs taking 15 minutes > and that was before one touch jacks, impact wrench and powered tyre > remover/resetters. I think its a nice gadget and probably worth its > weight for a commercial operator, if only they'd do tube repairs. > It's good because you can patch the typical undersize tubes and the > patches will hold. With the rubbersolution/contact adhesive applied > patches they will creep on an undersized tube.
> As well as tubes, the iron may also be able to apply patches to a tyre > casing otherwise saving a newish tyre from being discarded due to a > small cut that the tube would otherwise poke through and repeatedly > puncture.
> As far as regular patching goes, what seems to make the biggest > difference in reliability is whether you clean the tube with spirit or > not. Since cleaning the patch area with spirit I have not had a > failure. Other points are to apply the thinnest smear of solution to > the tube and let it dry fully before removing the foil from the > patch. If when you dab the supposedly dried solution with a finger it > lifts, it isn't dry yet, leave it a bit longer. There is no real > maximum time in leaviong the dried solution although contact adhesive > instructions generally say to close the joint within half an hour > (with a spirit solution). Burnish the patch after application.
Er, I missed a not so little point "Round curing head: 3-1/8" diameter" Rather large for a bicycle tyre or tube.
Gary Young wrote: > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > device might be of help:
> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
Several Boy Scouts in our troop patched two inner tubes 4 times each over the past few weeks using only what comes in a regular patch kit--sandpaper, cement, and patches. (They weren't the first--these are wheels from a bike my son bent the frame on hitting a tree and have served in this way before Sooner or later they'll be patching the patches!) I just had them read and follow the directions and helped nudge one or two of them on back course as needed.
None had ever patched a tube before.
The tires were blown up to 75PSI every time they were patched, most recently a week ago last night, with no leaks. They were still tight as a drum last night, a week later (and I complimented the scouts on their patching technique).
I'm thinking the refresher training is all you really *need*, but maybe some of the other suggestions offer less opportunity for error, which with unsupervised volunteers could be the way to go.
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:06:22 -0500, Gary Young wrote: > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique > is in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if > this device might be of help:
I still stand by it. I've patched around 100 since this was written. There was rain on most of the rides where I was a mechanic this year. It was punctured followed by squeaking chains.
You really need to be specific about how the leaks re-appeared. It could be that you did not find all the holes, you missed the hole when you applied the patch or the patch failed.
I do use a bucket of water to find punctures and to make sure they are all patched before using them. I did go over my technique for centering the patch on the puncture in the above link.
There are several reasons why a patch might fail. The tube might not have been cleaned before applying the vulcanizing fluid. Mr. Muzi suggested buffing compound rather than sand paper. This is what he is referring to:
You also have to make sure that your vulcanizing fluid is fresh, especially if you are using cold vulcanizing fluid from an 8 oz can. I do not keep vulcanizing fluid more than 1 season. Ditto for the patches.
You also have to make sure that the applied vulcanizing fluid is dry before you apply the patch. My application technique is designed to minimize drying time. N.B. what Rema says about what happens if you try to hurry drying the cold vulcanizing fluid. Patience is a virtue.
You want to make sure that the edges of the patch are vulcanized to the tube. This is difficult if the patch is larger than the flattened tube. Rema makes two patch diameters. Unfortunately, the smaller 16 mm diameter patches don't come with most patch kits. You should buy the box of 100 patches.
You also need to burnish the patches from the center outwards. This also insures that the patch edges are vulcanized to the tube.
Finally, don't pull the cellophane cover from the outside. Slit it in the center and roll it off from the center to the edge.
The patches should be ready to roll and be permanent, if these tips are followed.
On Oct 29, 9:22 pm, Stephen Bauman <sbau...@abt.net> wrote:
> Rema makes two patch diameters. Unfortunately, the smaller 16 mm diameter > patches don't come with most patch kits. You should buy the box of 100 > patches.
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:34:56 -0700 (PDT), DirtRoadie
<DirtRoa...@aol.com> wrote: >On Oct 29, 9:22 pm, Stephen Bauman <sbau...@abt.net> wrote:
>> Rema makes two patch diameters. Unfortunately, the smaller 16 mm diameter >> patches don't come with most patch kits. You should buy the box of 100 >> patches.
On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 21:48:56 -0600, carlfogel wrote: > On Thu, 29 Oct 2009 20:34:56 -0700 (PDT), DirtRoadie > <DirtRoa...@aol.com> wrote:
>>On Oct 29, 9:22 pm, Stephen Bauman <sbau...@abt.net> wrote:
>>> Rema makes two patch diameters. Unfortunately, the smaller 16 mm >>> diameter patches don't come with most patch kits. You should buy the >>> box of 100 patches.
>>Agreed. Where? Sources seem to come and go.
>>DR
> Dear D,
> The smooth-edge f0p Rema patch is nominally 20mm:
I have used naptha lighter fluid with success to clean the tube. I think the buffing compound is specific for use with a buffing stone. The use of which is probably most suitable for the OP to ensure absolute reliability with patching technique. A spotless clean and dry brush (possibly like a cane flux brush, throw it out at the end of the day) is required to remove the abraded dust following the use of the stone.
On 30 Oct, 03:22, Stephen Bauman <sbau...@abt.net> wrote:
> You also have to make sure that your vulcanizing fluid is fresh, > especially if you are using cold vulcanizing fluid from an 8 oz can. I do > not keep vulcanizing fluid more than 1 season. Ditto for the patches.
Size your can of rubber solution according to your usage. I doubt whether it is important to use the exact rubber solution specifically for the patch, but if you're having problems or working in a testing environment then use the recommended solution. Always replace the cap immeadiately. The smallest cans are probably best for less concientious workers else evaporation of the solvent will leave the solution to tviscous and difficult to apply in the thin layer necessary for limiting the effects of poor cohesion of the adhesive with a cold patch system.
Rema, the puncture supplies specialist advise a warm shop and five minutes minimum drying time. Put a cup over the patch area so accidental contamination is less likely.
> You want to make sure that the edges of the patch are vulcanized to the > tube. This is difficult if the patch is larger than the flattened tube.
Roll the tube as you go over the patch.
I like to use a teaspoon for burnishing, fits my hand well, at least with cotton tape beefing up the handle.
If your using patches with cellophane on the back, such as the Tip Top brand then it will roll up on its own when you have given it sufficient burnishing. I do not pull off the cellophane, its presence means I have not completed the burnishing.
> Gary Young wrote: > > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > > device might be of help: > >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66757 > > That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
> No, it won't. > Switch from an abrasive technique to a solvent cleaning > before applying cement. If there's a Tech Supply guy in your > area, have him stop (Tech sells from route trucks). That's > what they do and they do it well.
The Tech Supply guys have a mobile mould-release removal service??? :-) +2 for solvent---though emery paper works fine IME.
> The smooth-edge f0p Rema patch is nominally 20mm:
That may be, but I'd love to find some @ an actual 16mm - probably would not be Remas. I have had them on and off over the years, I presently have a dwindling stash of some that are roughly 18mm. The smallest ones just seem to do the job best and easiest for the pinholes which constitute the majority of my punctures, both road and MTB.
On 30 Oct, 11:09, thirty-six <thirty-...@live.co.uk> wrote:
> Size your can of rubber solution according to your usage. I doubt > whether it is important to use the exact rubber solution specifically > for the patch, but if you're having problems or working in a testing > environment then use the recommended solution.
Apparently the Tip Top cold vulcanizing flui8d works in 24hrs. I dont know whether it is essential to vulcanize (and how can you VULCANize without heat?) the cement layer, I have used straight rubber solution/ contact adhesive and all seems well. But then again I dont test my patches by peeling them off. Perhaps if you need to try to peel your patches you should make sure they are vulcanized.
> Always replace the cap > immeadiately. The smallest cans
75g
> are probably best for less > concientious workers else evaporation of the solvent will leave the > solution to tviscous and difficult to apply in the thin layer > necessary for limiting the effects of poor cohesion of the adhesive > with a cold patch system.
Of course this may not be too relevant if you use a thick layer of cement and leave it to vulcanize (24hrs) before using. I'm guessing the activator for vulcanisation is in the patch and this could be why I've been able to use normal contact adhesive and have good results.
> I like to use a teaspoon for burnishing, fits my hand well, at least > with cotton tape beefing up the handle.
It seems Rema Tip Top have a tool they call a stitcher for pressing the patch. A 35mm wheel with a handle.
Gary Young wrote: > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > device might be of help:
> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
Somewhat OT, but in the early days of my youth (I just turned 40, BTW) I seem to recall tire patching-kits where there was a little metal tray you held over the hole, a patch fit into it somehow, and you had to light the thing with a match and let it burn for a few seconds for it to work.
I remember these devices because (after I learned to do it myself) this was the only reason that adults at the time would let me have "my own" matches. A couple other people the same age as me said they never heard of such a thing.
What were these things called, and where did they all go? Or have I just gone soft in the head again? ~
> Gary Young wrote: > > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes > > with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little > > while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is > > in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this > > device might be of help:
> > That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
> Somewhat OT, but in the early days of my youth (I just turned 40, BTW) I > seem to recall tire patching-kits where there was a little metal tray > you held over the hole, a patch fit into it somehow, and you had to > light the thing with a match and let it burn for a few seconds for it to > work.
> I remember these devices because (after I learned to do it myself) this > was the only reason that adults at the time would let me have "my own" > matches. A couple other people the same age as me said they never heard > of such a thing.
> What were these things called, and where did they all go? Or have I just > gone soft in the head again? > ~
I've seen it done. Upon closer inspection the repairer was using matches and a teaspoon in one repair and a cigarette lighter on another,both preheating the spoon. I think it is possible that a crown cap from a beer bottle will provide sufficient heat energy if a flame can be directed onto it (a gas flame from a lighter) now and again during the heating of a vulcanising patch. Pressure needs to be applied to the iron to ensure the bonding of the adhesive layer. I have been looking through some online Tip Top documents and it appears that their patches can be (hot) vulcanized, although I have not had issue with their cold cure system. I have a patch in a tubular made from latex emulsion and stuck with latex emulsion. It's been in for 300 miles with no evidence of leakage. I was exceptionally careful about preperation of the tube, the repair done in almost laboratory conditions. It does not seem that vulcanization (or cold curing) is essential for an effective repair.
Zinc oxide is used as an accelerant for the vulcanizing process and I wonder whether a smear of zinc oxide paste (as in medical supply) would have been applied to the tube before the patch (with latex and sulpher) is applied and heated.
>Gary Young wrote: >> I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do >> repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes >> with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little >> while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique is >> in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if this >> device might be of help:
>> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
>Somewhat OT, but in the early days of my youth (I just turned 40, BTW) I >seem to recall tire patching-kits where there was a little metal tray >you held over the hole, a patch fit into it somehow, and you had to >light the thing with a match and let it burn for a few seconds for it to >work.
>I remember these devices because (after I learned to do it myself) this >was the only reason that adults at the time would let me have "my own" >matches. A couple other people the same age as me said they never heard >of such a thing.
>What were these things called, and where did they all go? Or have I just >gone soft in the head again? >~
Dear Doug,
The once-common hot vulcanizing patches used mostly for cars have vanished from the US, possibly due to health concerns:
As that thread points out, hot vulcanizing patches are still produced and sold under license in some other countries. Click on "products" for a few more details: http://www.camel.com.co/index_eng.html
The electric vulcanizing tool in the original post heats with electricity instead of combustion and is just a small version of the commonplace vulcanizer used mostly for auto tire repair:
DougC wrote: > Gary Young wrote: >> I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do >> repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes >> with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little >> while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique >> is in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering >> if this device might be of help:
>> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
> Somewhat OT, but in the early days of my youth (I just turned 40, BTW) I > seem to recall tire patching-kits where there was a little metal tray > you held over the hole, a patch fit into it somehow, and you had to > light the thing with a match and let it burn for a few seconds for it to > work.
> I remember these devices because (after I learned to do it myself) this > was the only reason that adults at the time would let me have "my own" > matches. A couple other people the same age as me said they never heard > of such a thing.
> What were these things called, and where did they all go? Or have I just > gone soft in the head again? > ~
Hot Patch Kit, long obviated by Cold Patch systems
Gary Young wrote: > I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do > repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out > bikes with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us > a little while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in > patching technique is in order for our volunteers is in order, but I > was also wondering if this device might be of help:
> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
Not true! I posted my experience with the REMA patch representative at InterBike two years ago who was unaware of the purpose of installation of his product. He was not aware of why sandpaper is used to CLEAN the tube at the puncture and was unaware of applying the patch before the rubber cement is fully dry, having never heard of van der Waals forces and how adhesives work.
After applying a patch to a tube he had as demonstrator, following the wide spread mis-beliefs installing the patch and not removing the cellophane, he handed me the "perfectly patched example" from which I instantly pulled off the patch and handed it to him to his amazement.
I'm sure he never heard of what is in the following FAQ item:
On Wed, 04 Nov 2009 19:19:12 +0000, Jobst Brandt wrote: > Gary Young wrote:
>> I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do >> repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out bikes >> with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a little >> while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching technique >> is in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also wondering if >> this device might be of help:
>> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
> Not true! I posted my experience with the REMA patch representative at > InterBike two years ago who was unaware of the purpose of installation > of his product. He was not aware of why sandpaper is used to CLEAN the > tube at the puncture and was unaware of applying the patch before the > rubber cement is fully dry, having never heard of van der Waals forces > and how adhesives work.
> After applying a patch to a tube he had as demonstrator, following the > wide spread mis-beliefs installing the patch and not removing the > cellophane, he handed me the "perfectly patched example" from which I > instantly pulled off the patch and handed it to him to his amazement.
Yes, but the machine at the link above applies pressure and heat to the patch and tube:
"Automatic setting repairs inner tube punctures in just five minutes.
* Large 6" throat makes it easy to apply heat sealed patches to any size inner tube * Snap-type thermostat reaches curing temperature quickly * Includes two curing heads: round head for small punctures and an oval head for longer tears * Manual setting allows longer application of heat if necessary"
I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in repairing bike tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be helpful.
At the community bike shop, we're going to start using the solvent recommended by Andrew Muzi and others. (Plus refresher training.)
Gary Young wrote: >>> I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and >>> do repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending >>> out bikes with newly patched tubes and then having them come back >>> to us a little while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course >>> in patching technique is in order for our volunteers is in order, >>> but I was also wondering if this device might be of help:
>>> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true? >> Not true! I posted my experience with the REMA patch >> representative at InterBike two years ago who was unaware of the >> purpose of installation of his product. He was not aware of why >> sandpaper is used to CLEAN the tube at the puncture and was unaware >> of applying the patch before the rubber cement is fully dry, having >> never heard of van der Waals forces and how adhesives work. >> After applying a patch to a tube he had as demonstrator, following >> the wide spread mis-beliefs installing the patch and not removing >> the cellophane, he handed me the "perfectly patched example" from >> which I instantly pulled off the patch and handed it to him to his >> amazement. > Yes, but the machine at the link above applies pressure and heat to > the patch and tube: > "Automatic setting repairs inner tube punctures in just five > minutes. > * Large 6" throat makes it easy to apply heat sealed patches to any > size inner tube * Snap-type thermostat reaches curing temperature > quickly * Includes two curing heads: round head for small punctures > and an oval head for longer tears * Manual setting allows longer > application of heat if necessary" > I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in repairing > bike tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be helpful. > At the community bike shop, we're going to start using the solvent > recommended by Andrew Muzi and others. (Plus refresher training.)
That's old automobile technology and does not make a patch that is permanently held, not readily removable.
Those who have tried to remove a well cured REMA parch can recall that they are not manually removable. Of course most REMA patches are not well cured because they are applied to dried up rubber cement.
I think the explanation of how to do this is simple and effective... and not what bicycle experts commonly do. Don't ride a freshly patched tube! The test of placing a common cardboard business card between tube and tread ought to make that apparent.
On 5 Nov, 20:12, Gary Young <garyyou...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in repairing bike > tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be helpful.
Indeed it may be. You can test your repairs when the rubber has cooled. You should not do this with cold cure patching. Preperation time is otherwise similar. It may be worthwhile to note that the cold cure rubber solution may be sensitive to shelf life and to check manufacturers date codes.
> That's old automobile technology and does not make a patch that is > permanently held, not readily removable.
That's because it needs the assistance of a concientous worker. These are still used to effect inner tube repairs to motor cycles and plant machinery.
> Those who have tried to remove a well cured REMA parch can recall that > they are not manually removable. Of course most REMA patches are not > well cured because they are applied to dried up rubber cement.
Stuff and nonsense. If the rubber solution had dried up, you could not get it out the tube or can.
> I think the explanation of how to do this is simple and effective... > and not what bicycle experts commonly do. Don't ride a freshly > patched tube! The test of placing a common cardboard business card > between tube and tread ought to make that apparent.
What, that you still cant patch a tube correctly, so that is is usable immediately?
On Fri, 06 Nov 2009 15:31:37 +0000, Jobst Brandt wrote: > Gary Young wrote:
>>>> I volunteer at a community bike shop where we give away bikes and do >>>> repairs for the needy. We've had some problems with sending out >>>> bikes with newly patched tubes and then having them come back to us a >>>> little while later with leaks. Maybe a refresher course in patching >>>> technique is in order for our volunteers is in order, but I was also >>>> wondering if this device might be of help:
>>>> That page claims the patch would be cured in five minutes -- true?
>>> Not true! I posted my experience with the REMA patch representative >>> at InterBike two years ago who was unaware of the purpose of >>> installation of his product. He was not aware of why sandpaper is >>> used to CLEAN the tube at the puncture and was unaware of applying the >>> patch before the rubber cement is fully dry, having never heard of van >>> der Waals forces and how adhesives work.
>>> After applying a patch to a tube he had as demonstrator, following the >>> wide spread mis-beliefs installing the patch and not removing the >>> cellophane, he handed me the "perfectly patched example" from which I >>> instantly pulled off the patch and handed it to him to his amazement.
>> Yes, but the machine at the link above applies pressure and heat to the >> patch and tube:
>> "Automatic setting repairs inner tube punctures in just five minutes.
>> * Large 6" throat makes it easy to apply heat sealed patches to any >> size inner tube * Snap-type thermostat reaches curing temperature >> quickly * Includes two curing heads: round head for small punctures and >> an oval head for longer tears * Manual setting allows longer >> application of heat if necessary"
>> I gather from comments here that it wouldn't be helpful in repairing >> bike tubes, though I am curious WHY it wouldn't be helpful.
>> At the community bike shop, we're going to start using the solvent >> recommended by Andrew Muzi and others. (Plus refresher training.)
> That's old automobile technology and does not make a patch that is > permanently held, not readily removable.
> Those who have tried to remove a well cured REMA parch can recall that > they are not manually removable. Of course most REMA patches are not > well cured because they are applied to dried up rubber cement.
>>> I'm sure he never heard of what is in the following FAQ item:
> I think the explanation of how to do this is simple and effective... and > not what bicycle experts commonly do. Don't ride a freshly patched > tube!
Yes, I agree. However, since we don't have much of a budget for spare parts, we often run out of tubes and by necessity have to put a newly patched tube right back in.
That leads to another question -- is it OK to re-inflate a newly-patched tube as long as one doesn't ride it?
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