The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the cantilevers and mount V brakes?
Bob Lambert wrote: > The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually the > case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > cantilevers and mount V brakes?
Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances aren't an issue. AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
Bob Lambert wrote: > The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually the > case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > cantilevers and mount V brakes?
Peter Cole wrote: > Bob Lambert wrote: >> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually >> the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the >> cantilevers and mount V brakes?
> Yes.
BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis so I could actually stop quickly.)
On Nov 4, 5:49 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
> Peter Cole wrote: > > Bob Lambert wrote: > >> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually > >> the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > >> cantilevers and mount V brakes?
> > Yes.
> BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them > to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had > V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis > so I could actually stop quickly.)
Tektro RL520 levers are $25 and pull vees or cable discs great. Much comfier than the long pull Dia Compes, IMHO.
landotter wrote: > On Nov 4, 5:49 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote: >> Peter Cole wrote: >>> Bob Lambert wrote: >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually >>>> the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? >>> Yes. >> BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them >> to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had >> V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis >> so I could actually stop quickly.)
> Tektro RL520 levers are $25 and pull vees or cable discs great. Much > comfier than the long pull Dia Compes, IMHO.
You're ASSuming he doesn't have brifters. But yes, I have no experience actually using them, but I have whatever the short pull version of those brakes are laying around here somewhere and they look very nice, sturdy and comfortable - and the price was astonishing. They even have a QR built in. The only reason I didn't use 'em was because I found a pair of NOS Dia-Compe non-aero levers for even less, and using cantis I didn't need the QR.
I also have some matching Tektro wide cantis, price was equally astonishing, just so I'd have them in case I found a problem with my original Dia-Compe brakes. I think all in for the complete braking system I paid $50 or so. How do they make it so cheap? Hell, a set of Kool-Stop pads would about double the value of the setup.
On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote:
> Bob Lambert wrote: > > The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually the > > case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > cantilevers and mount V brakes?
> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances > aren't an issue. > AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
landotter wrote: > On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >> Bob Lambert wrote: >>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually the >>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the >>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? >> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances >> aren't an issue. >> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio > cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is > to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
I replaced the canti's on my Schwinn tourer with linear pulls (generic name for V-brakes). they work ok with a cable pull enhancer (A.K.A.Travel Agent). even better when paired with the enhanced pull of Dia Compe cantilever or linear pull levers.
What I have now is a linear pull specially made for road bikes, manufactured by Tektro:
"Mini-Lini's" I call them. I still use the Travel Agent on the rear to make up for cable stretch, but the front runs straight trough on the big pulley only, it doesn't need any enhancement. I'm using the Dia Compe Cantilever model levers, and neither one bottoms out unless I squeeze the hand levers with suicidal force. They work great, it takes very squeeze to stop the bike with these.
Nate Nagel wrote: > landotter wrote: >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>> Bob Lambert wrote: >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this >>>> actually the >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances >>> aren't an issue. >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
>> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
> I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
> I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some mini V's. Any recommendations?
> Nate Nagel wrote: > > landotter wrote: > >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: > >>> Bob Lambert wrote: > >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this > >>>> actually the > >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? > >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances > >>> aren't an issue. > >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
> >> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio > >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is > >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
> > I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
> > I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis > > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately > > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little > > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull > > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
> I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some > mini V's. Any recommendations?
Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire. If you're unhappy with the Oryx brakes--try a different set of brake shoes on one end and see how that might help. If it's really the brake that pisses you off, try some different Tektro arms on there, like the more traditional geometry of the CR720. IMHO, if you're going to go linear pull brake, get the regular long arm Tektros--they're fantastic, but do require a long pull lever.
> On Nov 5, 12:31 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
> > Nate Nagel wrote: > > > landotter wrote: > > >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: > > >>> Bob Lambert wrote: > > >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this > > >>>> actually the > > >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? > > >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances > > >>> aren't an issue. > > >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
> > >> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio > > >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is > > >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
> > > I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
> > > I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis > > > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately > > > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little > > > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull > > > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
> > I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some > > mini V's. Any recommendations?
> Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and > prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire. If you're > unhappy with the Oryx brakes--try a different set of brake shoes on > one end and see how that might help. If it's really the brake that > pisses you off, try some different Tektro arms on there, like the more > traditional geometry of the CR720. IMHO, if you're going to go linear > pull brake, get the regular long arm Tektros--they're fantastic, but > do require a long pull lever.
I've heard negative comments about the Oryx before, but I bought them before I knew better (I figured stock would be at least adequate... I know, not always a good assumption.) I wasn't happy with them with the Tektro pads but with Kool Stops I felt no need to go any farther.
N8N wrote: > On Nov 5, 9:33 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote: >> On Nov 5, 12:31 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
>>> Nate Nagel wrote: >>>> landotter wrote: >>>>> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >>>>>> Bob Lambert wrote: >>>>>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this >>>>>>> actually the >>>>>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the >>>>>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? >>>>>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances >>>>>> aren't an issue. >>>>>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts. >>>>> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio >>>>> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is >>>>> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-) >>>> I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference. >>>> I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis >>>> it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately >>>> discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little >>>> disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull >>>> "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now. >>> I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some >>> mini V's. Any recommendations? >> Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and >> prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire. If you're >> unhappy with the Oryx brakes--try a different set of brake shoes on >> one end and see how that might help. If it's really the brake that >> pisses you off, try some different Tektro arms on there, like the more >> traditional geometry of the CR720. IMHO, if you're going to go linear >> pull brake, get the regular long arm Tektros--they're fantastic, but >> do require a long pull lever.
> I've heard negative comments about the Oryx before, but I bought them > before I knew better (I figured stock would be at least adequate... I > know, not always a good assumption.) I wasn't happy with them with > the Tektro pads but with Kool Stops I felt no need to go any farther.
Yep, that seems to be the order of the day, so Kool Stop Salmons will be ordered.
> On Nov 4, 5:49 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
> > Peter Cole wrote: > > > Bob Lambert wrote: > > >> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually > > >> the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > >> cantilevers and mount V brakes?
> > > Yes.
> > BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them > > to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had > > V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis > > so I could actually stop quickly.)
> Tektro RL520 levers are $25 and pull vees or cable discs great. Much > comfier than the long pull Dia Compes, IMHO.
The performance on my RL520s was great, until they fell apart. I have had both of the tektro road levers, the R200a and the RL520, fail under the same conditions, within the same time frame and the same way. First the quick release button eats a hole into the plastic body and you are riding in quick release all the time. Next the plastic body starts to disintegrate and the entire brake lever comes out. I am a hard user, but that just means that I ride a lot and use my brakes a lot, not that the brakes get smashed or beaten up. Both of the levers failed within two years for simply being ridden on. The basic problem is that brake levers should be made out of metal, not plastic. I replaced the Tektros with the Dia Compes, and now wish I had bought those first.
> On Nov 5, 12:31 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
> > Nate Nagel wrote: > > > landotter wrote: > > >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: > > >>> Bob Lambert wrote: > > >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this > > >>>> actually the > > >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? > > >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances > > >>> aren't an issue. > > >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
> > >> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio > > >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is > > >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
> > > I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
> > > I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis > > > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately > > > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little > > > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull > > > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
> > I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some > > mini V's. Any recommendations?
> Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and > prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire.
That ain't necessarily so.....I just built up a ca 1992 C'dale T2000 touring frame using Tektro 926A mini-Vs. 35mm Paselas (on 622 rims) and 45mm PB fenders - the wire easily clears the fender. (Now, using any V brake in the front of this bike is a PIA due to the narrowness of the Tange steel fork - but I prevailed.)
> On Nov 4, 3:56 pm, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Nov 4, 5:49 pm, Nate Nagel <njna...@roosters.net> wrote:
> > > Peter Cole wrote: > > > > Bob Lambert wrote: > > > >> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this actually > > > >> the case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > > >> cantilevers and mount V brakes?
> > > > Yes.
> > > BUT you run the risk of bottoming out your levers unless you change them > > > to match or use a "travel agent" (when I bought my Cannondale it had > > > V-brakes on it with Shimano road levers, I changed them back to cantis > > > so I could actually stop quickly.)
> > Tektro RL520 levers are $25 and pull vees or cable discs great. Much > > comfier than the long pull Dia Compes, IMHO.
> The performance on my RL520s was great, until they fell apart. I have > had both of the tektro road levers, the R200a and the RL520, fail > under the same conditions, within the same time frame and the same > way. First the quick release button eats a hole into the plastic body > and you are riding in quick release all the time. Next the plastic > body starts to disintegrate and the entire brake lever comes out. I am > a hard user, but that just means that I ride a lot and use my brakes a > lot, not that the brakes get smashed or beaten up. Both of the levers > failed within two years for simply being ridden on. The basic problem > is that brake levers should be made out of metal, not plastic. I > replaced the Tektros with the Dia Compes, and now wish I had bought > those first.
I've had the r200a's on two bikes with no problem. Probably not the mileage as you, as both bikes have been fair weather rides in retrospect--but I did manage to nearly wear out the hoods on a set before I sold off that bike. Could it be the Portland grit, or what? I'm no luddite and find no offense at the plastics--but I have and did make a habit of lubing the bits quite regularly with the Dupont stuff. Quick releases saw a good bit of use and I pushed and reinserted the pivot pins a few times when I used them as dummy lever on a fixed gear.
Still my favorite plain road levers, though I'm curious what your variable in destruction was.
<bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote: > On Nov 5, 8:33 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > On Nov 5, 12:31 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
> > > Nate Nagel wrote: > > > > landotter wrote: > > > >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: > > > >>> Bob Lambert wrote: > > > >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this > > > >>>> actually the > > > >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > > >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? > > > >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances > > > >>> aren't an issue. > > > >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
> > > >> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio > > > >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is > > > >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
> > > > I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
> > > > I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis > > > > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately > > > > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little > > > > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull > > > > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
> > > I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some > > > mini V's. Any recommendations?
> > Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and > > prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire.
> That ain't necessarily so.....I just built up a ca 1992 C'dale T2000 > touring frame using Tektro 926A mini-Vs. 35mm Paselas (on 622 rims) > and 45mm PB fenders - the wire easily clears the fender. (Now, using > any V brake in the front of this bike is a PIA due to the narrowness > of the Tange steel fork - but I prevailed.)
> [...]
No kidding? My experience with these things is purely observational, to be honest. The ones I've looked at have been on flat bar go fast rigs. Usually with 28-32mm tires. Looked way too tight for fenders. So much for observational skills. <g>
What's your opinion about brake levers appropriate to pull the little forkers?
On Fri, 6 Nov 2009 21:16:34 -0800 (PST), landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote: >On Nov 6, 9:11 pm, Ozark Bicycle ><bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote: >> On Nov 5, 8:33 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> > On Nov 5, 12:31 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
>> > > Nate Nagel wrote: >> > > > landotter wrote: >> > > >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: >> > > >>> Bob Lambert wrote: >> > > >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this >> > > >>>> actually the >> > > >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the >> > > >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? >> > > >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances >> > > >>> aren't an issue. >> > > >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
>> > > >> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio >> > > >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is >> > > >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
>> > > > I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
>> > > > I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis >> > > > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately >> > > > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little >> > > > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull >> > > > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
>> > > I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some >> > > mini V's. Any recommendations?
>> > Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and >> > prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire.
>> That ain't necessarily so.....I just built up a ca 1992 C'dale T2000 >> touring frame using Tektro 926A mini-Vs. 35mm Paselas (on 622 rims) >> and 45mm PB fenders - the wire easily clears the fender. (Now, using >> any V brake in the front of this bike is a PIA due to the narrowness >> of the Tange steel fork - but I prevailed.)
>> [...]
>No kidding? My experience with these things is purely observational, >to be honest. The ones I've looked at have been on flat bar go fast >rigs. Usually with 28-32mm tires. Looked way too tight for fenders. So >much for observational skills. <g>
>What's your opinion about brake levers appropriate to pull the little >forkers?
I'm using Tektro Drop V levers. Haven't worn mine out either.
> <bicycleatel...@ozarkbicycleservice.com> wrote: > > On Nov 5, 8:33 am, landotter <landot...@gmail.com> wrote:
> > > On Nov 5, 12:31 am, Tosspot <Frank.Le...@esa.int> wrote:
> > > > Nate Nagel wrote: > > > > > landotter wrote: > > > > >> On Nov 4, 4:37 pm, AMuzi <a...@yellowjersey.org> wrote: > > > > >>> Bob Lambert wrote: > > > > >>>> The mounting points look to be in a similar position. Is this > > > > >>>> actually the > > > > >>>> case and is the threading the same. In short, can you take off the > > > > >>>> cantilevers and mount V brakes? > > > > >>> Sure as long as you have a suitable lever and the clearances > > > > >>> aren't an issue. > > > > >>> AEBE I'd take the cantilever but both fit same mounts.
> > > > >> Ya, doesn't matter much. We just set up D.'s Cannondale with Alivio > > > > >> cantis and Eagle IIs. Stops as nicely as 12 buck Tektro Vees, which is > > > > >> to say--a lot better than it needs to. ;-)
> > > > > I think it's the Eagle IIs that make the difference.
> > > > > I changed my own Cannondale from some V-brakes back to the same cantis > > > > > it would have come with new - I think Tektro Oryx. Immediately > > > > > discovered why the PO had probably ditched them... braking a little > > > > > disappointing. Got some KS "cross pads" and started being able to pull > > > > > "stoppies." I'm definitely on board with Kool Stop now.
> > > > I'm just thinking of ditching the Tektro Oryx on my Dawes for some > > > > mini V's. Any recommendations?
> > > Tektro stuff is fine. However, the minis limit your tire selection and > > > prevent the use of fenders due to the low cross wire.
> > That ain't necessarily so.....I just built up a ca 1992 C'dale T2000 > > touring frame using Tektro 926A mini-Vs. 35mm Paselas (on 622 rims) > > and 45mm PB fenders - the wire easily clears the fender. (Now, using > > any V brake in the front of this bike is a PIA due to the narrowness > > of the Tange steel fork - but I prevailed.)
> > [...]
> No kidding?
There is no "kidding" on RBT! This is a serious forum where serious folk share serious "facts" and "data" about serious bicycle matters. Seriously! If you don't have the "facts" or the "data", don't post here! <g>
> My experience with these things is purely observational, > to be honest. The ones I've looked at have been on flat bar go fast > rigs. Usually with 28-32mm tires. Looked way too tight for fenders. So > much for observational skills. <g>
Clearance will be a matter of the location of the brake mounts. Most OEM and aftermarket forks are probably fine in this regard. The rear might be a crapshoot, depending on the frame.
> What's your opinion about brake levers appropriate to pull the little > forkers?
The aforementioned C'dale uses vintage Shimano aero levers (BL-L331). Another recent build uses the Tektro mini-Vs with ca 2006 Campy Centaur Ergo levers. So, IME, regular ol' road levers work fine.
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