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misc.consumers.house |
According to satellite_chris <satellite_ch...@hotmail.com>: When it comes down to it, the strut and the 4x4 are equivalent In my case, it'd be pretty difficult for the 4x4 to spin because But still, I'm fussy, and "finishing" the job will entail a couple You could do that with the super strut too - drill a couple of small There are situations where super-strut would be preferable to 4x4s _Whatever_ you use for support, I do strongly recommend that you If you use let a long eyebolt protrude, say, 4" below the support In other words, keep the swing arm supporting the hoist as _short_ This does mean that you can't have a bolt shank sized hole in
> That was kind of what I was thinking. The initial purpose of this [I'm familiar with superstrut. I've handled some offcuts, so I know
> hoist in the garage would be for removing kegs out of the pickup
> safely, by myself, with no danger to my back. I had all kinds of
> other ideas in mind for things that it might be useful for down the
> road. I have a zero turn mower that I could maintain easier using the
> same garage hoist.
> I think I am set on a 4x4 in the attic going across 4 trusses and
> screwed in to the trusses with a simple screw. No gigantic lag bolts.
> I like the idea of the super strut but I am just nervous about not
> screwing it to the trussess, I can just picture the superstrut spinning
> 90 degrees for some reason and come crashing down through the
> sheetrock.
> Same for the 4x4, I can imagine the same thing happening if not screwed
> in to some degree.... I wish I could just trust the superstrut idea
> and do the no screw method....
what it is. But I don't think our HDs carry it. Unfortunate...
There are neat things you can do with it that you can't with
lumber. Eg: cheap/solid rails for home built table saw fences ;-)]
in terms of being paranoid about it turning sideways (the strut
perhaps being a little more likely in terms of less friction).
Both are more than adequate in terms of strength.
it's partially wedged in place with parts of the roof truss.
of #8 or #10 screws tied into the trusses. If nothing else so
it won't move and disturb the rest of the ceiling.
holes and poke a few #8s or #10s. [predrill the trusses if you're
paranoid about splitting. As long as you don't split 'em, a few
screws won't hurt the trusses.]
for this application, but 4x4s are cheap, plentiful and perfectly
adequate for most situations.
don't have the eyebolt (or whatever you hang the hoist on) extend
below the 4x4/super-strut any more than just the eye of the bolt itself.
beam, and have your load swing perpendicular to the support
beam, the support beam may rock (increasing the possibility of
slip) if the beam isn't fastened to the trusses, and potentially
fatigue-break the screws/damage the trusses if it is fastened to
the trusses.
as possible. You can use a quicklink like I did, or a few links
worth of proper chain. Or maybe the top hook on the hoist makes
it unnecessary.
the ceiling drywall. Just make the hole big enough to handle
the max swing - probably 4-5 inches in diameter. Mine's probably
going to end up being a rectangular recess. Insulation piled
over top to make up for the loss of insulation between the
bottom truss chords.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.