Harry K wrote: > If a hoist is wanted, one pulley on the ceiling and one on the > keg brings it down to 80 pound pull on a rope.
In case people can't imagine how that's rigged... Rope is fixed to the ceiling (4x4 or whatever), runs down to the keg, through a pulley (how do you connect a pulley to a keg?), back up to the ceiling, through another pulley, and down again.
And you'll get quite a bit less than the theoretical 2-to-1 advantage -- probably more like a 90 pound pull instead of 80. And if I were doing it, I'd use climbing carabiners instead of pulleys, way cheaper and good to around 5000 pounds (if used properly).
As for connecting the pulley to the keg, I'm picturing a "keg harness" made of webbing, cleverly tied somehow...
That was kind of what I was thinking. The initial purpose of this hoist in the garage would be for removing kegs out of the pickup safely, by myself, with no danger to my back. I had all kinds of other ideas in mind for things that it might be useful for down the road. I have a zero turn mower that I could maintain easier using the same garage hoist.
I think I am set on a 4x4 in the attic going across 4 trusses and screwed in to the trusses with a simple screw. No gigantic lag bolts. I like the idea of the super strut but I am just nervous about not screwing it to the trussess, I can just picture the superstrut spinning 90 degrees for some reason and come crashing down through the sheetrock. Same for the 4x4, I can imagine the same thing happening if not screwed in to some degree.... I wish I could just trust the superstrut idea and do the no screw method....
Chris Lewis wrote: > There's something to be said for engineering your solutions to be > a bit more generalized than the original problem. They often > get used for more things than you originally intended.
> I do that a lot. Overbuild/overcomplicate things. But over the > years, it's usually turned out to have been a very good idea.
> Yeah, I could have lifted the lawn tractor motor with a 2:1 pulley > setup. But (a) I already had the chain hoist and (b) now I can do > a lot of other things that a simple pulley arrangement can't do or > can't do very well.
> I could have used an engine hoist instead - a little more flexible. > But I don't have one, I had a chain hoist. > -- > Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est > It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
According to satellite_chris <satellite_ch...@hotmail.com>:
> That was kind of what I was thinking. The initial purpose of this > hoist in the garage would be for removing kegs out of the pickup > safely, by myself, with no danger to my back. I had all kinds of > other ideas in mind for things that it might be useful for down the > road. I have a zero turn mower that I could maintain easier using the > same garage hoist. > I think I am set on a 4x4 in the attic going across 4 trusses and > screwed in to the trusses with a simple screw. No gigantic lag bolts. > I like the idea of the super strut but I am just nervous about not > screwing it to the trussess, I can just picture the superstrut spinning > 90 degrees for some reason and come crashing down through the > sheetrock. > Same for the 4x4, I can imagine the same thing happening if not screwed > in to some degree.... I wish I could just trust the superstrut idea > and do the no screw method....
[I'm familiar with superstrut. I've handled some offcuts, so I know what it is. But I don't think our HDs carry it. Unfortunate... There are neat things you can do with it that you can't with lumber. Eg: cheap/solid rails for home built table saw fences ;-)]
When it comes down to it, the strut and the 4x4 are equivalent in terms of being paranoid about it turning sideways (the strut perhaps being a little more likely in terms of less friction). Both are more than adequate in terms of strength.
In my case, it'd be pretty difficult for the 4x4 to spin because it's partially wedged in place with parts of the roof truss.
But still, I'm fussy, and "finishing" the job will entail a couple of #8 or #10 screws tied into the trusses. If nothing else so it won't move and disturb the rest of the ceiling.
You could do that with the super strut too - drill a couple of small holes and poke a few #8s or #10s. [predrill the trusses if you're paranoid about splitting. As long as you don't split 'em, a few screws won't hurt the trusses.]
There are situations where super-strut would be preferable to 4x4s for this application, but 4x4s are cheap, plentiful and perfectly adequate for most situations.
_Whatever_ you use for support, I do strongly recommend that you don't have the eyebolt (or whatever you hang the hoist on) extend below the 4x4/super-strut any more than just the eye of the bolt itself.
If you use let a long eyebolt protrude, say, 4" below the support beam, and have your load swing perpendicular to the support beam, the support beam may rock (increasing the possibility of slip) if the beam isn't fastened to the trusses, and potentially fatigue-break the screws/damage the trusses if it is fastened to the trusses.
In other words, keep the swing arm supporting the hoist as _short_ as possible. You can use a quicklink like I did, or a few links worth of proper chain. Or maybe the top hook on the hoist makes it unnecessary.
This does mean that you can't have a bolt shank sized hole in the ceiling drywall. Just make the hole big enough to handle the max swing - probably 4-5 inches in diameter. Mine's probably going to end up being a rectangular recess. Insulation piled over top to make up for the loss of insulation between the bottom truss chords. -- Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Chris Lewis wrote: > According to Harry K <turnkey4...@hotmail.com>: > > Okay, I can buy that but I still think the chain hoist is way > > overboard.
> Well yeah, but if you recall, I think I was the first to mention > a chain hoist, simply because because I _already_ had one (a > christmas present from 10 years earlier!) when I set up my lift > system, so I built what I built with what I had, and described _that_.
> A pulley system could just as easily be substituted for the _specific_ > purpose of lowering barrels, but from the safety/ease/lifting > standpoint, it isn't as nice as a hoist.
> [And mine was for _both_ lifting and lowering things.]
> > I would get a lot more fun out of rigging a few pulleys > > than using one of those as heavy and slow as they are. I can see > > needing a hoist to raise the kegs -up- but a ramp would be plenty for > > bringing them -down-.
> There's something to be said for engineering your solutions to be > a bit more generalized than the original problem. They often > get used for more things than you originally intended.
> I do that a lot. Overbuild/overcomplicate things. But over the > years, it's usually turned out to have been a very good idea.
> Yeah, I could have lifted the lawn tractor motor with a 2:1 pulley > setup. But (a) I already had the chain hoist and (b) now I can do > a lot of other things that a simple pulley arrangement can't do or > can't do very well.
> I could have used an engine hoist instead - a little more flexible. > But I don't have one, I had a chain hoist. > -- > Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est > It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.
Quite true on all the points and I also tend to really overbuild things, sometimes with malice aforethought but more often just because I overbuild things.
A suitably strong ramp for the back of the pick up and a two-wheeler with good tires (the air-filled ones are better than the solid kind, in my experience) and just roll the kegs up and down.
You can probably find a suitable handtruck at Home Depot or similar or if you want fancy, you can get one made for keg moving
A suitably strong ramp for the back of the pick up and a two-wheeler with good tires (the air-filled ones are better than the solid kind, in my experience) and just roll the kegs up and down.
You can probably find a suitable handtruck at Home Depot or similar or if you want fancy, you can get one made for keg moving
On Tue, 12 Sep 2006 04:41:55 -0500, Richard J Kinch <ki...@truetex.com> wrote:
> Chris Lewis writes:
>> I'm familiar with superstrut. I've handled some offcuts, so I know >> what it is. But I don't think our HDs carry it.
> They hide it on the electrical aisle, next to the standing racks of > conduit.
The local home depots just started carrying it one year, maybe two years ago. And only 2 of the 3 I visit regularly have it now. The third did a closeout only a few months after getting it in. Unfortunately the strut was gone when I saw the yellow tags, but I got a good selection of misc hardware (bolts, washers, etc) for WAY less than the hardware aisle.
sdb
-- Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com
On 7 Sep 2006 13:10:46 -0700, Harry K <turnkey4...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Okay, I can buy that but I still think the chain hoist is way > overboard. I would get a lot more fun out of rigging a few pulleys > than using one of those as heavy and slow as they are. I can see > needing a hoist to raise the kegs -up- but a ramp would be plenty for > bringing them -down-.
Don't pay more than $5. Oh, and the biggest disadvantage to it, is lack of a brake -- maintain tension, else the load will come down. With a double pulley on the load and a triple on the ceiling, you'll be pulling only circa 40 lbs. Of course, with a 6ft lift you'll have a 24ft pile of rope on the floor. :)
sdb -- Wanted: Omnibook 800 & accessories, cheap, working or not sdbuse1 on mailhost bigfoot.com
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